Contrast Test
Check your monitor or laptop screen for crushed blacks, clipped whites, and lost shadow or highlight detail. Open a fullscreen test pattern and count how many gray steps you can distinguish.
Contrast Test
Check black levels, white saturation, and shadow/highlight detail on your display.
📋 How to Test
Count how many distinct gray boxes you can see in the shadow and highlight grids. On a healthy display you should distinguish almost all 16 steps in each grid. If the darkest boxes blend into black, or the brightest blend into white, your contrast or gamma may need adjustment.
Test your display contrast online
This contrast test lets you check any display for crushed blacks, clipped whites, and lost detail in seconds. It shows shadow and highlight step grids plus black/white reference squares so you can judge the full tonal range. Whether you just bought a new monitor, want to calibrate a laptop for photo editing, or need to decide if a TV is worth returning, this online checker gives a fast, accurate read without installing any software. It also works as a before-and-after check, so after you change a picture mode you can prove that the change recovered real shadow or highlight steps rather than merely shifting the problem from one end of the scale to the other.
How to Test Your Screen Contrast
- 1 Set your display to its normal brightness and reset any "vivid" or "dynamic contrast" picture modes to Standard.
- 2 Click "Start Test" above and switch to the Shadow Detail grid.
- 3 Count how many of the 16 dark boxes you can tell apart from pure black. Write the number down.
- 4 Switch to the Highlight Detail grid and count how many bright boxes you can tell apart from pure white.
- 5 Check the Black Level and White Saturation references — each center square should be just barely visible.
- 6 If boxes blend together, adjust brightness/contrast in your monitor menu and re-test.
⚠️ Test in your normal room lighting — a pitch-dark room makes even poor contrast look acceptable, and harsh daylight washes out shadow detail.
What Is Display Contrast?
Contrast is the difference between the darkest black and the brightest white your display can produce, expressed as a ratio like 1000:1. But the raw ratio is only half the story: equally important is whether your display renders every step in between. A monitor can claim high contrast yet still "crush" near-black grays into pure black or "clip" near-white grays into pure white — losing detail in dark movie scenes and bright skies. This test checks the full tonal range, not just the extremes. Gamma is the other half of the equation, because it decides how the available contrast is distributed across the tonal range. A display with a modest ratio but a correct gamma curve can therefore show more usable shadow detail than a high-ratio panel with a steep curve, which is why the step count matters more than the advertised number.
How to Read Your Results
Each grid shows 16 labeled steps. Compare what you see against these benchmarks:
- 14–16 shadow steps visible: excellent — your black levels and gamma are well set.
- 10–13 shadow steps visible: acceptable for everyday use, but dark movie scenes may lose detail.
- Fewer than 10 shadow steps visible: crushed blacks — lower contrast or raise brightness slightly.
- 14–16 highlight steps visible: excellent — whites retain texture instead of blowing out.
- Fewer than 10 highlight steps visible: clipped whites — reduce contrast in your monitor menu.
- Both center reference squares (#0A0A0A and #F5F5F5) barely visible: ideal calibration.
Crushed Blacks vs Clipped Whites
⬛ Crushed Blacks
When near-black grays all render as pure black, dark scenes lose texture — jackets become blobs, night scenes become voids. Common on VA panels with aggressive gamma or when brightness is set too low. Fix: raise brightness one notch, or set gamma to 2.2.
⬜ Clipped Whites
When near-white grays all render as pure white, clouds lose shape and faces blow out. Common when contrast is cranked to maximum or in "vivid" store-demo modes. Fix: lower the contrast setting until the #F5F5F5 square reappears.
How Much Detail Loss Is Normal?
No consumer display resolves every step perfectly. Losing the single darkest box (value 0 vs 3) or the single brightest box (value 255 vs 252) is normal and invisible in real content. TN panels typically resolve fewer shadow steps than IPS, and VA panels resolve fewer than OLED — that is a panel characteristic, not a defect. Viewing angle also changes the reading, since VA panels lose contrast quickly off-axis while IPS panels gain a washed-out glow, so judge the grid from the position you normally sit in.
General rule: if you can distinguish 12 or more steps in each grid during normal use, your contrast is fine. Only consider a return or warranty claim if large bands of steps merge together and the problem persists after resetting your monitor to factory defaults. Age matters too, because backlight output drifts and panel behaviour changes over several years, so a display that resolved fifteen steps when new may resolve twelve after long service at high brightness. Re-run the grids once or twice a year rather than only when something already looks wrong.
Can Poor Contrast Be Fixed?
Things you can try
- Reset your monitor to factory defaults, then select the sRGB or Standard picture preset.
- Set brightness so the #0A0A0A square is just barely visible against pure black.
- Lower contrast until the #F5F5F5 square reappears against pure white.
- Turn off "dynamic contrast", "black stabilizer", and "vivid" modes — they crush or clip detail.
- Match your GPU output range (Full 0–255) with the monitor input range to avoid washed-out blacks.
⚠️ Important note
Contrast limits are mostly set by panel hardware — no software can make a 600:1 TN panel match an OLED. If calibration does not help and the panel merges large bands of gray, that is a hardware characteristic, not something a driver update will fix. Do not open the monitor or press on the panel — that causes permanent damage and voids the warranty.
Why use our Contrast Test
A 16-step dark grid from pure black (#000) to dark gray. Count how many steps you can distinguish — a healthy display shows almost all 16.
A 16-step bright grid from light gray to pure white (#FFF). Reveals clipped whites that merge into a flat white area.
Pure black background with a #0A0A0A center square. If the square is invisible, your blacks are crushed.
Pure white background with a #F5F5F5 center square. If the square is invisible, your whites are clipping.
Press ← → to switch patterns, F for fullscreen, Esc to exit. Test without touching the mouse.
Immersive fullscreen testing using the Fullscreen API. Eliminates browser chrome for accurate edge-to-edge inspection.
Mark any issue you see to get a diagnostic summary with health score, possible causes, and next steps.
Works on LCD, LED, OLED, IPS, VA, TN, and Mini-LED panels. Test monitors, laptops, TVs, tablets, and phones.
All testing happens locally in your browser. No screenshots, no camera access, no data collection.
No installation, no plugins, no signup. Just open this page and start testing your screen immediately.
Test your phone or tablet screen too. The tool works on any device with a browser.
Switch between test patterns instantly. No loading, no processing — just pure test images.
Supported Scenarios & Limitations
Quickly check whether Contrast Test is the right tool for your needs. The lists below show exactly what this browser-based tool can and cannot do.
Works With
- LCD / LED monitors and displays
- IPS / VA / TN / QLED / Mini-LED panels
- OLED displays (perfect-black verification)
- Laptop screens (MacBook, Dell, HP, Lenovo)
- External monitors (all brands)
- TVs (used as monitors or via built-in browser)
- Phones and tablets
- Fullscreen shadow, highlight, and level patterns
- Crushed black and clipped white detection
- Keyboard shortcuts (arrows, F, Esc)
Not Supported
- Measuring an exact contrast ratio number (requires a colorimeter)
- Fixing hardware contrast limits (a panel characteristic)
- Calibrating colors, gamma curves, or white point precisely
- Detecting dead pixels (use our Dead Pixel Test)
- Testing refresh rate (use our Refresh Rate Test)
- Repairing damaged or aging display panels
Contrast Test only verifies whether input events reach the browser. It cannot determine whether a failure is caused by hardware, drivers, firmware, or the operating system.
Contrast by Panel Type
Perfect blacks (infinite contrast). Shadow detail depends on near-black handling — some panels crush the darkest step.
High native contrast (3000–5000:1). Deep blacks but may show gamma shift and some shadow crushing off-angle.
Moderate contrast (1000–1500:1). Good step resolution across the range; blacks look dark gray in dark rooms.
Lowest contrast (600–1000:1) with narrow viewing angles. Expect fewer distinguishable shadow steps.
High contrast with local dimming, approaching OLED. Test with dimming on and off — blooming can mask steps.
OLED Displays
OLED pixels emit their own light, so black is truly black. If you cannot see the #0A0A0A square on an OLED, your brightness is set too low or an aggressive "black stabilizer" equivalent is crushing near-black detail.
Privacy & Safety
This contrast test is privacy-first. The tool only changes CSS background colors of a fullscreen HTML element — no camera access, no screenshots, no image processing, no data collection of any kind.
No information about your display, resolution, or results is transmitted to any server. The tool needs no account, no login, and no personal information. You can verify this by opening your browser developer tools (F12) → Network tab — zero network requests are made during testing. Because the page is a static document, you can also save it locally and run the whole test with the network disconnected, which suits machines that handle sensitive work or workshops with restricted internet access.
Contrast Test FAQ
What is a contrast test for monitors? ▼
A monitor contrast test checks whether your display renders the full range from pure black to pure white without losing detail at either end. Using our tool, you view a 16-step shadow grid (values 0–51), a 16-step highlight grid (values 204–255), and black/white reference squares. You count how many steps you can distinguish. A healthy display shows 14–16 steps in each grid. Missing steps mean crushed blacks (dark detail lost) or clipped whites (bright detail lost), usually fixable through brightness and contrast settings.
How do I test my screen contrast? ▼
Testing takes about two minutes: (1) Reset your monitor picture mode to Standard or sRGB and set normal brightness. (2) Click "Start Test" above and open the Shadow Detail grid. (3) Count the dark boxes you can tell apart from black — aim for 14–16. (4) Open the Highlight Detail grid and count bright boxes distinguishable from white. (5) Check both reference squares (#0A0A0A on black, #F5F5F5 on white) — each should be just barely visible. (6) Adjust brightness for blacks and contrast for whites, then re-test.
What are crushed blacks? ▼
Crushed blacks happen when near-black gray tones all display as pure black, so dark scenes lose texture — for example, folds in a black jacket disappear or night scenes become flat voids. The most common causes are brightness set too low, an aggressive gamma curve, "black stabilizer" gaming modes, or a limited-range (16–235) GPU signal feeding a full-range display. To fix it, raise brightness one notch at a time until the #0A0A0A reference square becomes just visible, then verify with the shadow grid.
What are clipped whites? ▼
Clipped whites (white saturation) happen when near-white gray tones all display as pure white, so bright detail disappears — clouds lose shape, wedding dresses become flat blobs. The usual cause is the contrast setting pushed too high, common in "vivid" or store-demo picture modes. To fix it, lower the contrast setting gradually until the #F5F5F5 reference square reappears against the white background, then verify with the highlight grid. Aim for 14–16 distinguishable highlight steps.
How many gray steps should I be able to see? ▼
On a well-calibrated 8-bit display you should distinguish 14–16 of the 16 steps in each grid. Seeing 12–13 steps is acceptable for everyday use and rarely noticeable in real content. Fewer than 10 visible steps indicates a real problem — crushed blacks or clipped whites worth fixing through monitor settings. Note that losing only the single darkest step (0 vs 3) or the single brightest step (255 vs 252) is normal on consumer panels and not a defect.
What is a good contrast ratio for a monitor? ▼
Typical native contrast ratios: TN panels 600–1000:1, IPS panels 1000–1500:1, VA panels 3000–5000:1, and OLED effectively infinite:1 since each pixel turns fully off. Higher numbers mean deeper blacks. However, the ratio alone does not guarantee visible detail — a high-contrast panel can still crush near-black steps with a bad gamma curve. That is why this step-count test matters more than the marketed ratio: it measures the detail you actually see.
Why do dark scenes look washed out on my monitor? ▼
Washed-out dark scenes usually mean one of three things. First, a limited-range (16–235) vs full-range (0–255) mismatch between your GPU and monitor — black is rendered as dark gray. Fix it by setting both sides to Full/RGB 0–255. Second, IPS glow or backlight bleed lifting the blacks in a dark room (use our Screen Bleeding Test to check). Third, brightness set far too high. Work through them in that order: range match, bleed check, then brightness calibration with the #0A0A0A reference.
Can I test contrast on my phone or TV? ▼
Yes. On a phone, open this page in the mobile browser, dim the room slightly, and run the shadow grid — OLED phones should show near-perfect step separation. On a TV, open the page in the built-in browser or cast it from a laptop, then disable "vivid", "dynamic contrast", and energy-saving modes first, since those distort the test. For TVs also test with local dimming on and off: aggressive dimming can crush small shadow steps while improving headline contrast numbers.
Is this test safe for OLED screens? ▼
Completely safe. The test displays static gray patterns, but a two-minute manual check cannot cause burn-in — OLED burn-in requires thousands of hours of the same static bright element. Unlike "pixel fixer" videos that flash harsh strobing colors for hours, this tool uses calm static patterns. All rendering is local CSS with zero network activity, and there is no camera or screenshot access of any kind.
Does HDR change how I should test contrast? ▼
Yes, because HDR moves the reference points. In SDR the scale runs from 0 to 255 and the shadow grid applies directly. In HDR the display follows a perceptual transfer curve such as PQ or HLG, so the darkest steps sit at different code values and a black that looks correct in SDR can look lifted in HDR. Test both modes separately: confirm the SDR shadow grid first as your baseline, then switch the operating system and the display to HDR and run the grid again, letting the panel settle for a minute. If shadow steps vanish only in HDR, the tone-mapping curve is too aggressive, and lowering peak brightness usually recovers the lost steps.
What brightness should I use for a contrast test? ▼
Use the brightness you actually work or watch at, because a contrast result only means something at realistic settings. For an office that is typically 120 to 150 nits, in a bright room 200 to 250 nits, and in a dim room for film or photo work around 100 to 120 nits. Photo editing usually targets 120 nits with a 6500K white point so that prints match the screen. Do not test at maximum brightness, since that clips highlights and makes shadows look artificially clean. Set brightness first, then adjust the contrast control to recover the brightest reference square, and remember that on most LED displays the backlight control is the only true brightness adjustment.
Can I calibrate contrast without a colorimeter? ▼
You can get close with patterns alone, which is exactly what this test is for, but you cannot measure an absolute number without a meter. Visual calibration can set black level, white saturation, and a rough gamma target reliably enough for everyday use, gaming, and streaming. A hardware colorimeter is needed when the result must be verifiable: matching two displays, preparing print work, or documenting a calibration report. A useful middle path is to use the shadow and highlight grids for the eyes-on adjustment, then verify the white point with a pattern-based gray reference. If a professional workflow depends on the result, borrow or buy a meter and verify what you set visually.
Quick Summary
Contrast Test is a free online tool that checks display contrast using a 16-step shadow detail grid, a 16-step highlight grid, and black/white level reference squares. Count the distinguishable steps to detect crushed blacks and clipped whites on LCD, OLED, IPS, VA, TN, and Mini-LED displays — monitors, laptops, TVs, tablets, and phones. All testing runs locally in your browser. No download, no camera, no data collection. Use it before buying a display to judge it in a store, after a graphics driver update that may have changed the output range, and whenever dark scenes in games or films stop showing the detail you expect.